Garage Door, One wire, Multiple buttons, Technology

[penright]

There are tons of articles on sodering a wire to back of the switch. My question, does anyone know the technology of how they use two wires for two switches? Do different garage door openers somewhat standard? I can only think of a few ways.....
1. Some sort of serial protocol
2. Different values of resistance
I don't think it is some sort of x-y scan, since you would need three wires?

My old house was a craftsman, my new is Linear. I am pretty sure the Linear GD00Z is dry contact. You would think they make one that would work with their door lifts without hacking the wall switch.
The good news is looks like their remotes are only about $15, so I don't know if it is worth pulling another wire from the wall switch or hacking a remote.

[penright]

No response so I started to reverse engineer the switch.
Disclaimer: This is the best guesses I have and if you use any of this and it smokes something then don't hold me responsible. :-)

After doing some googling, first this must be standard because as someone pointed they sell generic switches. When I get to the pictures you will see switches, resistors, and diodes. Looks like nothing special. Also looks like a 0 ohms (closed switch) is what cycles the door.
The light switch completes the 100 ohm circuit?
Have not digested the vacation one yet. My thinking is to post some picture and see if there are any comments. I will look at them later when I get time. I need to get to my day job. :-)
BTW, last night after pulling off the switch, I shorted wires and the door would cycled.
As you can see in the pictures, I have a Linear.

[rpr69]

The switch labeled 'Vacation' looks like it's just a toggle to disable the opener, presumably while you are on vacation?

I can tell you what I did, and it is a giant hack, but it works. I have a Zwave power outlet setup in my Almond. Plugged into that is a 12 volt transformer that is wired to a 12V NO automotive relay, and the output contacts on the relay are wired to the 'doorbell' switch on my garage door opener. I just toggle the power to the Zwave outlet and my garage door opens. The only issue I have is that if I leave the outlet on, then the doorbell switch doesn't work, since it presumably can't close the circuit to cycle the door. I'm sure I could work around that electrically, but it's not worth the hassle.

I also have a Zwave garage door tilt sensor on the door to notify if it's opened.

I don't have any pictures of the above setup, but it should be pretty simple to replicate, should you desire it. I had all the parts on hand from various other projects, so it didn't really cost me anything. I originally tried using a Zwave relay but I could never get it to pair reliably. Come to think of it, the power outlet I have might be Zigbee, but the concept is the same.

[fillibar]

For a 12v switch, would something like a Monoprice curtain device work? It sets 3 outputs closed to ground (12vdc and max 100mA I think). It is meant for triggering a curtain drive motor (just triggering, not running). You can program the duration each of those 3 outputs trigger for. 1 to 255 seconds. That might allow it to act more like a simple button press.

[penright]

The switch labeled 'Vacation' looks like it's just a toggle to disable the opener, presumably while you are on vacation?

Yes, you are correct.
I was trying to figure out the circuit. One part that I missed posting, I think the +12 is on the left in the drawing. Also, I left off is the diodes are led's. One is stays lighted. But I think they double as blocking. I can follow the traces with a door press, that is completes the circuit with no resistance. Looks like the light switch flows through the 100 ohm. I can't follow the vacation circuit. I am thinking when the switch is closed, on vacation, then it goes through the 200 ohm, and forward basis the diode, so the circuit sees a "200 ohm" current flow. Just guessing.

For a 12v switch, would something like a Monoprice curtain device work? It sets 3 outputs closed to ground (12vdc and max 100mA I think). It is meant for triggering a curtain drive motor (just triggering, not running). You can program the duration each of those 3 outputs trigger for. 1 to 255 seconds. That might allow it to act more like a simple button press.

That is a neat device to keep in the "mental" toolbox. I could have used it at the old house.

@Rpr69/@filibar,
Just curious, why would why not use the Linear GD00Z? Just that you had the other parts to start with or is there a technical reason I am missing?

[fillibar]

My garage door is not controlled, I have just been debating using that curtain module for other DIY projects so it was on my mind. The Linear device looks decent and from all reports works well. I just have not found one at the "right price" for such an "optional" thing.

I was also looking at the Aeon Labs one. The Star Trek geek in me wanted to use the custom sound feature to play a clip of the shuttle bay door opening from The Next Generation...

[mparadis]

Does any one know if the Aeon Labs ones work with the A+ or A3 with dongle? I like some of the features of it over the Linear. Does it come with a separate door tilt sensor?

[fillibar]

According to their website it does come with a separate tilt sensor. Does not appear that anyone has posted about their experience with one though. Not many people talking about it otherwise either.

[mparadis]

Yeah I am not sure it is widely available yet still. Apparently Aeon Labs will be releasing a fan / light dimmer all in one product (microswitch) next. Unfortunately with them something being released "soon" seems to stretch a lot. The item is supposed to be similar to the Insteon Fanlinc product. Install in on spot control both the lights and fan. Who knows the outcome.

[rpr69]

My 'solution' was based on parts I had on hand. It's not pretty, but it works.

[fillibar]

No complaints with that method. If you can and it does what you need, great!

I saw someone complaining about (why would you do it that way instead of buying x because it is cheaper, easier, etc...) on another forum... Thankfully other commenters were quick to support. Learning how to do something, or enjoying making something yourself can often be "worth" quite a bit. Sometimes it even turns out to be cheaper (money wise and less frequently time).

[mparadis]

No complaints with that method. If you can and it does what you need, great!

I saw someone complaining about (why would you do it that way instead of buying x because it is cheaper, easier, etc...) on another forum... Thankfully other commenters were quick to support. Learning how to do something, or enjoying making something yourself can often be "worth" quite a bit. Sometimes it even turns out to be cheaper (money wise and less frequently time).

I agree and in my situations I usually will replace it eventually so I can use the parts for another project or similar.

[penright]

My 'solution' was based on parts I had on hand. It's not pretty, but it works.

No dog in the fight either way, just curious. I had a Linear at the old house, for $80'ish they come with tilt sensor. It worked as advertised. I also used a Remotec dry contact, wired it up in a $5 power strip, for all the same reason you and @fillbar said. I am just learning, that why I took my garage door switch apart. :-). There are so many post about people soldering the dry contact to switch, I just did not understand why. Now I feel good about just installing it at the opener. Still trying to figure out the circuit for the vacation. I think my next step, when I get time, will be to put it back together and measure voltage, I wonder if the opener reverse the voltage trying to sense the switch.

[rpr69]

No worries, I wasn't trying to be snarky, if that is how it came across. I'm all about creative solutions. It used to be called hacking, but that has taken on a bit of a negative connotation, depending on the audience.

[penright]

No worries, I wasn't trying to be snarky, if that is how it came across. I'm all about creative solutions. It used to be called hacking, but that has taken on a bit of a negative connotation, depending on the audience.

I am the new guy. You know what we learned from Galaxy Quest about the new guy ....
Actually, I was afraid I was the one coming off snarky. All is good. :-)